Torino

We took a weekend trip to Torino to enjoy time with our friend, and to see some of Northern Italy! From Amsterdam's Schipol airport we flew to Milan Malpensa using the low-cost carrier Easyjet. Easyjet allows you to carry on one bag with no weight restrictions, provided that it fits into the overhead compartment. It also does not assign seating, so once the gates open, it's a mad-dash to the front or back of the plane to board. Gabriel and I were lucky in that we got exit-row seats, and had a little extra leg room.


The flight lasted just over an hour, and when we reached Milan the weather was sunny and humid. From Milan Malpensa we took a shuttle bus to the main train station, which cost around EUR7,00. Once we arrived in Milano Centrale,we bought train tickets to Torino Porto Nuova, a journey that lasted 2 hours. The train we took was extremely run-down (not like the beautiful new trains in the Netherlands), and had no air-conditioning. What's worse, it didn't have functioning windows, so we literally rode in an air-tight compartment for 2 hours.

After arriving in Torino, we met up with our friend and headed to his apartment. On the way we stopped off at an Italian pizzeria and picked up some pizzas to go. It was thin-crust and piping hot...delicious! After a quick nap, we freshened up and headed out to explore Torino! Most of the tile sidewalks of the city are connected via beautiful marble passageways. The former king in Torino ordered these to be built so that he wouldn't have to walk in the rain! Since it did rain quite a bit while we were in Torino, we were thankful that these overhangs were built!


We visited piazza after piazza, and saw gorgeous statues, trendy fashion boutiques, and lots of outdoor cafes. The first stop was to get some famous Italian gelato! Next we visited the historial Cafe Torino, where we ordered cappuccinos and drank them "Al Banco" (standing up at the counter) like the locals! Then we ate some gianduja chocolates, which are from Torino. Did you know that Torino invented chocolate eggs and chocolate bars? Although Italian chocolate doesn't receive as much attention as Swiss or Belgium chocolate, it originated here!



Torino is bisected by the beautiful River Po, with the rising foothills of the Alps flanking it. All along the hill you can see gorgeous Italian mansions painted yellow and cream...absolutely breathtaking! On our first night in Torino we stopped in at a cafe on the river and ate at the "aperitivo". Torino is famous for "aperitivos" which are literally "all-you-can-eat" dinner buffets. While I normally avoid buffets like the plague, in Torino they were fresh and home-made, and were constantly being re-stocked with more delicious Italian dishes! These aperitivos only cost around EUR7,00 and are not found in more touristy locales (like Rome, Venice, etc.)...because clearly the tourists would take advantage of them!

We spent the rest of the night hanging out with the Italian locals and partying at the bars lining the River Po. At one bar I had strawberry daiquiris made with fresh strawberries! Although some of the bars were sketchier than others, it was a great time and the city looked stunning in the moonlight.


The next morning we ate some fresh croissants and cappuccinos at a local cafe. We spent the rest of the afternoon at the Mole, which is a building in Torino which has been converted to house the Museum of Film. Cinema originates in Torino, and thus, this museum pays homage to the thousands of movies throughout the decades. While Gabriel and I are not staunch film critics, we did find the museum interesting and very random! The exhibits were amazing, the architecture breathtaking, and the elevator ride to the top observation deck was not to be missed! The elevator literally climbs up to the top of the Mole through the middle of the main museum room, suspended by a few cables! The ride in the glass-cube elevator is a bit scary, but once you reach the top deck, it is completely worth it! From the deck we saw the beautiful red tiled rooftops of Torino, the rolling dark green mountains, and the beautiful stucco homes. Definitely a high-light of the trip!


After another aperitvo and lots of gelato, we enjoyed an evening of wine, cards, and laughter. The following morning we visited a replica of a Medieval village in Torino. Located in Valentino Park near the River Po, this was a hidden treasure of the city that was absolutely gorgeous! After spending the morning there, we headed to the train station to begin our trek back to the much cooler and less humid Netherlands!

Torino Must-Sees, Must-Dos, and Must-Eats...

• Pizza, gelato, gianduja chocolates, cappuccinos, espresso
• The Mole (if not the Museum of Film, the ride to the observation deck is essential!)
• Medieval Village in Valentino Park
• Cafe Torino
• Bars along the River Po
• Fresh croissants in the early morning at a cafe
• Royal gardens (looked beautiful, but we could not find an entrance in!)
• Shopping district and gorgeous piazzas!
  

Dutch Museum Pass

While traveling to Utrecht for a day of sight-seeing, I was told about "De Museumkaart" at the Universiteitsmuseum. De Museumkaart is available for EUR35,00 or EUR17,50 if you are younger than 25 years old.

The card allows you to visit all of the museums in The Netherlands, either for free or for a very minimal cost. After purchasing my card, I was able to visit both the Universiteitsmuseum and Centraal Museum in Utrecht for free! By the end of the day, I had already made up the cost of the pass, which means that for the rest of my stay in The Netherlands, I can visit all the museums I want...for FREE.

These passes are available at most museums or tourist offices. Even if you are planning a week long stay in Holland, these passes are a wise-buy. Entry to each of the museums I visited were roughly EUR10,00, so this pass will definitely end up paying off itself after visiting two or three museums (for example: van Gogh, Rijksmuseum, Stedelijk Museum CS).

If you have an interest in culture, De Museumkaart is a must-have when visiting the Netherlands!

Utrecht Afternoon

After a week of rain, I took advantage of the sunshine and decided to go to Utrecht. For only EUR6,70 I was able to make a round-trip to this city, only 20 minutes away from my home in Hilversum. While Utrecht may not be on tourists' lists of places to visit in the Netherlands, I highly recommend it. Utrecht has stunning architecture, lots of museums, great shopping, and the picturesque charm of gabled buildings and flowing canals.

Arriving in Utrecht Centraal, finding your way out of the train station can be a bit challenging. The main station leads to the central area of Utrecht via a large shopping mall. After winding your way through the entire shopping center, and following the "Uitgang" green signs, you will arrive near the main centrum area of Utrecht.

My first stop in Utrecht was the Dom-toren (cathedral tower) near the University of Utrecht. The Dom-toren has become a symbol of Utrecht, which is often called the Domstad (cathedral town) because of it. A small courtyard from the university neighbours the tower, and I was lucky enough to see a wedding photography session taking place within it! A small fountain with gargoyles bubbles in the middle of the courtyard, flanked on each side by beautiful stone archways and passages.


After that I was off to the Universiteitsmuseum on Lange Nieuwstraat. All of the major tourist attractions and museums in Utrecht are marked with road arrows, so finding anything is not a difficult task. At the museum I was told about the Museumkaart (see previous post). While buying my ticket, the man at the counter asked if I was interested in medical equipment. A random question definitely, but extremely appropriate since I studied Anatomy and Cell Biology during my undergraduate years at the University of Western Ontario. The man left his post at the counter to the museum and took me on a guided tour through the medical exhibit. He showed me the world's first microscope, on display at the university and a popular attraction for many researchers and academics from around the world. He then showed me a glass jellyfish from the 17th century, another highlight of the museum!

I spent the rest of my time exploring the museum alone, looking through the exhibits on skeletal remains, psychology testing, and medical instruments. The only down-fall to this museum was that it was primarily in Dutch. Although they did have some instruction booklets in English, it was difficult to participate in all of the exhibits (ie. the psychology exhibit) because they were not translated.

My next stop was Centraal Museum, the oldest municipal museum in the Netherlands. After an encounter with a rude ticket-taker, I visited most of the exhibits. Centraal Museum has everything from Utrecht's Viking boat to a showcase of Jean-Paul Gautier clothing. Across the street is the famous Dick Bruna Huis (House), the creator of the children's book series Nijntje (called "Miffy" in English).


The man working at the doorway to the Dick Bruna Huis began walking with me through the museum, telling me stories of Mr. Bruna and the history of Nijntje. Most of the museum was in Dutch, so I was lucky to have my very own tour guide! No one else was receiving tours, and oftentimes I found people trying to eavesdrop in on my private tour! Periodically throughout the tour he offered to take my photo near the Miffy statues and playhouses. I watched some movies on how Dick Bruna creates his drawings by hand, and how he edits and hand-crafts each book. Although he is in his late 70s, Bruna does not have plans for retirement, and still produces a few books each year. A trip to Utrecht cannot be complete without a trip to the Dick Bruna Huis, which has become an international icon and a tourist attraction for visitors from around the world.

Jet-Lag and Rain

Since arriving in The Netherlands this month, we have seen nothing but rain rain rain. It has literally not stopped raining in 2 days! This makes it very difficult to do any sight-seeing, and since most museums will be filled with stir-crazy tourists, I dare not venture into Amsterdam.

Perhaps this rain is a blessing, since it's allowed me to catch up on my blog and get our house in order. Besides suffering the effects of dismal weather, we have been so heavily jet-lagged that waking up in the mornings is a true struggle.

We came over from Canada, which usually is not a problem, but for some reason (the weather maybe??) this time has been brutal. We fall asleep at 3am and want to wake up the next day at 1pm. Definitely not conducive to a work-week (poor Gabriel!) It's been one week since we've arrived, and we have still not been able to adapt to this time zone (6 hours ahead of our usual).

In case you are planning a trip to The Netherlands in the near future, don't forget your umbrella and waterproof clothing/shoes. As well, make sure to switch your clocks immediately on the plane and try desperately not to think of the time back in your home country (this usually works for us!) In the meantime, I guess we can just thank the coastal climate and heavy winds for this bout of rainy rainy "summer" weather!

Brugges

During our stay in Belgium, Gabriel and I took a day-trip from Antwerp to Brugges. Brugges is a beautiful medieval town located near the coast of Belgium. It's only an hour train-ride away from Antwerp, costing EUR 13,60 for a round-trip ticket. While the train-station is less-than-impressive, Brugges itself is the most beautiful city I have ever travelled to.


While most cities usually have an old center, with the rest of the city being mostly new, Brugges is almost entirely old. Antwerp has a nice mix of new and old architecture, while Brugges is simply medieval all around. Gabriel and I fell in love with the winding canals, picturesque buildings, and old-fashioned horse-carriages clomping around the city. Swans are everywhere on the water, swimming in and out of the sweeping weeping willows which throw their branches into the still waters of the canals. Beautiful stone bridges arch across the passages, and enclosed castle-like buildings surround the city.


There is really no point in instructing people on where to visit in Brugges. Everywhere you go there is a sight to see, and an entire day can be spent sipping cappuccinos, walking through the city, and browsing the chocolate and lace shops (Brugges is the lace capital of the world). Perhaps one point worth mentioning is the expensive nature of the city. A simple lunch at an outdoor cafe will cost roughtly EUR40 (we ordered two coffees and two croquettes for this price!!!) All in all, Brugges was THE best city I have visited, and one I would highly recommend for a weekend away or a day-trip, as it does not require a lot of time to see the city.

Forward-thinking Dutch

The more time I spend in The Netherlands, the more I realize how truly forward-thinking the Dutch are. Not only do they have state-of-the-art architecture and water regulation systems, they care for their environment in a way that the rest of the world should mimic.

The Netherlands is the 3rd most densely populated country in the world, yet you would never know this by their carbon footprint on the environment. While Americans and Canadians are currently taking on a trendy green movement, the Dutch have been "green" for decades! Instead of driving their cars to run errands around town, they ride their bikes! Instead of hopping in their SUVs to ride to another city, they simply take the train. While rush-hour traffic is horrendous in cities like Amsterdam, it is minimal compared to the surge of traffic which pulses through downtown Toronto's 401 or NYC during weekday mornings.

Recycling is a huge part of life here in The Netherlands. Each household has two large bins, one black and one green. In the green bin all organic waste is disposed (food, garden clippings) while in the black bin all plastics, paper, glass, and tin are dumped. After sorting between the two, nothing is left over. Thus, all waste is either recycled or composted. This cuts back on the amount of land-fills, since land is such a precious commodity in this tiny northern country.

Other energy-saving trends that I have noticed here are that very few people have laundry dryers. At our home we have a tiny washing machine, and a clothes line. Although clothes turn out massively crunchy after drying, I recently was instructed to by some "Verzachter" (fabric softener) which will help the problem. Furthermore, since most homes in the cities have small yards, people just create gardens instead of leaving open spaces of grass. This cuts back on lawn-mowing/energy costs.

You get a feeling of extreme environmental consciousness throughout most of The Netherlands. Nothing is wasted, nothing is taken for granted. Because space is so limited, and the population is so dense, everything must be used for the most strictly efficient means.

In some ways, it feels as though The Netherlands is years, if not decades, ahead of North America.

Belgium's Harbor City: Antwerp

After arriving in The Netherlands, Gabriel and I took a quick weekend getaway to Belgium! Bordering The Netherlands on the South, Belgium is just a 2 hour train ride away from Amsterdam Centraal. We had initially planned on going to Brussels, but were heavily advised against it from loads of people at Gabriel's workplace. Instead, everyone suggested visiting Antwerp, which has a lively social scene, delicious food, and amazing shopping. I guess one benefit of living in Europe is finding out which cities are worth visiting, and which ones are better left for another time (ie. Brussels).


We used our Be-Ne-Lux Rail passes (which give access to Belgium, Netherlands, and Luxembourg) to get into Antwerp. We stayed at the Golden Tulip Antwerp Center hotel, located across the street from Antwerpen Centraal. It was a brand-new hotel, with a lot of construction going on around it. Nonetheless, our room was beautifully appointed with a double bed, flat screen tv, spacious bathroom, and seating area. We were really happy with the service we received there as well...one night we were so exhausted and jet-lagged that we couldn't bear the notion of walking 25 minutes into the city center to eat, so the hotel concierge kindly ordered us a pizza and had it hand-delivered to our room! Dank u wel!

Since we only had a short amount of time in Belgium, Gabriel and I skipped the museums and decided to get a feel of the local flavour. We walked through the main shopping street (Meir) and headed into the old part of town. The Groenplaats is a beautiful square with a breathtaking Kathedraal. We also visited the Grote Markt to see the old gabled houses, the famous statue, and the town hall featuring flags from around the world. Gorgeous.


We walked to the harbor and saw the beautiful Medieval castle, referred to as Het Steen (The Stone). It's located near a busy street, and right on the water! It was my first visit inside a Medieval castle, and I was so excited! Gabriel waited patiently while I snapped a million pictures :) Now Het Steen is a naval museum, and also serves as the beginning of the boardwalk (wandel terrassen) along the River Schelde. Atop the castle there is a plaque commemorating the Canadians who aided the Belgian people and the Allied Forces in WWII by delivering goods along the Schelde. Gabriel was particularly touched by this monument, and how it specifically singled out Canada's contribution to the Allied victory.


Things to do in Antwerp:

1. Diamond District - Antwerp is the diamond capital of the world, and the area immediately surrounding Antwerpen Centraal train station is referred to as the Diamond District. There are hoards of shops selling jewelry, and it seems to look sort of tacky...however, there are more beautiful shops like Chopard selling luxury diamonds. You can even take a tour of the Diamond Museum!

2. Hidden street Vlaeykensgang - I read on some website that this street was a must-see. After finding out the intersection where this street connects (Hoogstraat, Oude Koornmarkt and Pelgrimsstraat) we set out to find it. How hard could it be? We wandered around for roughly 20 minutes searching the block for it, and finally found it. You have to enter through a medieval gate, and inside you will find tiny alleyways with exquisite restaurants. To enter a restaurant, simply ring the buzzer and the maitre'd will lead you inside!

3. Het Steen (see above)

4. Grote Markt

5. Port of Antwerp and the boardwalk along the River Schelde

Similarities and Differences between Antwerp and Amsterdam:

* The streets of Antwerp are much more spacious than Amsterdam, where everything seems tight and narrow.

* Both cities are Dutch speaking, with Antwerp having more French influences

* Antwerp is generally a mix of new and old architecture, while Amsterdam is almost strictly old

* Amsterdam is loaded with tourist shops featuring Dutch clogs, wooden tulips, and marijuana souvenirs. We did not find one tourist shop in Antwerp, unless you count the decadent Belgian chocolate shops....


* Antwerp has Belgian waffels! Amsterdam has poffertjes! Both are heavenly.

* Antwerp has virtually no graffiti, and while Amsterdam is also very clean, it does have graffiti every few blocks.

In sum, Antwerp is a great place to stay for a few days! There isn't that much to see and do, unless you want to spend your time shopping (in which case, there are lots of opportunities to do so!) Rueben's House is also a wonderful place to see (17th c. painter), and the nightlife is fabulous. Antwerp has the bar Noxx, which is the largest bar in all of Europe. While we didn't make it to Noxx this time, we did party in the Grote Markt at a few bars, all of which were very smoky, yet very trendy and full of young people.

Back in Europe!

After a month at home in Canada, my boyfriend and I have arrived back in The Netherlands. Coming back for the third time, this country is really starting to feel like home. The excellent food, clean streets, and close distances between every attraction/city there is...we really missed this place!

The weather so far has been blahh (around 15 degrees with lots of clouds and rain), but hopefully it will get nicer as the summer months progress. We are desperate to go to the beach Bloemendaal, which we heard is absolutely beautiful and filled with young Dutch locals. On our flight from Toronto we met a guy from De Pijp in Amsterdam who told us tons of great places to go and see.

On Friday night we're going to a concert in Vondelpark in Amsterdam, and on the weekend we hope to get to the beach. If not, we have a big list of places we want to go and see, including Utrecht, Delft, Maastricht, and Terschelling. Hopefully the weather gets nice so that our fun European summer can begin!