Ajax and KerstMarkt

On Friday night, Gabriel and I were fortunate enough to receive free tickets to the Ajax soccer game from a co-worker. Ajax is Amsterdam's soccer team, and has been since 1900. This was our second time at a game, and once again, the Ajax fans did not disappoint. We knew that it was going to be a rowdy game as soon as we stepped onto our connecting train in Utrecht Centraal. Heading for Amsterdam's Bijlmer ArenA, we were unable to get seats on the packed train, and had to stand in the aisle. Every person was wearing a red, black, and white Ajax scarf, and the mood was festive and exciting. Once we arrived at the station, the tidal wave of young fans was incredible. The station was filled with cheers of "hey hey hey heyyyyy, ay Amsterdam!"

As we walked around the perimeter of the arena, trying to look for Noord A, we passed numerous oliebollen and hot dog stands, as well as carts selling scarves, soccer balls, and jerseys. It was freezing cold outside, and we were lucky to make it in through a quick line and up to our section. After a quick pit-stop at the concession stand, we headed to our seats with our Grolsch beers, van Dobben croquettes met brood, and salty popcorn. Yum!

Ajax was scheduled to play Breda, and although there weren't many Breda supporters, the game did get a little rowdy. The roof of the arena was open, which made for a very very cold evening. However, with an exciting game (which Ajax won 3-0) and tons of crazy fans, it did feel fun snuggling up with our scarves and coffees and watching the game!

This afternoon we were looking for something fun to do in the area. I found online that the Hotel Lapershoek in Hilversum was hosting a KerstMarkt (Christmas Market) this afternoon. We tried to pump up our bike tires, but neither bike seemed to get full of air. Thus, we began our short walk towards the Hilversum SportPark and Hotel Lapershoek. It cost us each 3,50EUR to get in to the market, and it turned out to be a small craft show. We browsed through paintings, lots of bulky bead jewelry, and some interesting home-made cards before heading out. Needless to say, Gabriel wasn't that impressed! It was ok to look at, but definitely not worth 7,00EUR. At least we got a nice walk in the fresh air out of it!

The Holiday Season

As the Dutch change their attention from Sinterklaas to Kerstdag (Christmas), I cannot help but be excited for the holidays at home in Canada. Before we left for Malta, the Netherlands was swept with Sinterklaas mania. However, they never mentioned Christmas. Now that Sinterklaas has passed, the whole country is in full-on Christmas mode. Stores are now decorated with Christmas decorations (no more Sint and Piet!), TV commercials are all about feasts and holiday entertaining, and Christmas markets are everywhere in the country. It's so exciting to see this country celebrate two different holidays in such exuberant ways.

Last Christmas with my family

Next week we will leave the Netherlands to return home to Canada for the holidays. After another stint of 6 weeks in Europe, I can't wait to be with family again. This year, my Oma will be visiting, which I am so so so so so excited for. As well, my niece, Kendra, will be celebrating her first Christmas! I know that this is going to be a memorable Christmas holiday!

Christmas countdown: 12 days away!

Holiday Festivities/My Christmas Holiday Wishlist:

• Bake gingerbread cookies with Mom
  
• Wrap my presents from the huge shopping spree I had before I left Canada
• Hand-make Christmas cards/gift tags
• Christmas photoshoot with Kendra
• Hannukah with Gabriel
• Spending time with my Oma
• Warm hot chocolate by the fire
• Christmas Eve dinner and present-opening
• Christmas dinner
• Sledding with Kendra
• Making a yule-log with Oma
• Spending time with old friends
• Shoveling snow with Dad
  
• New Year's Eve and fun holiday parties
  

Malta Holiday

We just got back from Malta a few days ago. It was, by far, one of the most interesting, exotic, and wonderful places I have ever gotten the opportunity to visit. From the enormous amounts of golden rock, stunning cathedrals, and bright blue Mediterranean to the old-fashioned buses and friendly locals, Malta was the experience of a lifetime.

Our days were jam-packed with fun activities, and after only staying 3 full days, we felt that we had a true taste of the island. We stayed with a friend on Tower Road in Sliema, one of the most exclusive and beautiful areas on the island. Our apartment looked out onto the sea, with a 15m balcony wrapping around the front. Gorgeous!

Marsaxlokk Fishing Village

On my favourite day, we woke up early to catch the bus to Marsaxlokk (pronounced marsa-shlock) for the Sunday fish market. The bus ride was quite long from Sliema, but we got to see so much of the Maltese countryside that it was very entertaining. Marsaxlokk was filled with vendors selling fish, food, clothing, souvenirs, etc etc. The true beauty of the place was the harbor, which was dotted with colourful Maltese fishing boats. The water was so clear and such a pale blue/green colour! We fortunately had wonderful weather, and while we were sitting on a dock, dipping our toes into the Med, it was like being in paradise. After Marsaxlokk we took the bus back to Valletta, and then down to Wied iz-Zurrieq, where the Blue Grotto is located. Unfortunately the water was too rough to go out on a boat, so we could only catch a small glimpse of the grotto. That excursion ended up being our favourite part of the trip, however, because we were able to climb along the cliffs in the sunshine and explore a part of the island where no one else was!

Hagar Qim megalithic temple 3600-3000 BC

After the grotto we took a taxi to the temples of Hagar Qim and Mnajdra. Mnajdra was closed for restoration, but we were able to visit Hagar Qim. Hagar Qim was built in 3600-3000 BC. The stones were enormous, and the carvings were remarkable. Having studied anthropology/archaeology, this was a highlight of the trip for me! Later that evening we visited the National Museum of Archaeology in Valletta to see some more sculptures that were taken out of the temples for safe-keeping.

Maltese buses at Triton Fountain Bus Terminal, Valletta

All in all, Malta was truly a wonderful vacation. The weather cooperated, the public transport was easy and efficient, and we always felt safe on the island. Definitely a great place to vacation, and we are looking forward to going back in the spring to catch the 35 degree weather!

St. Paul's Cathedral, Mdina

Must Sees in Malta:

1. Valletta, Malta's capital.
2. Marsaxlokk Fishing Market
3. Mdina, the silent city.
4. Hagar Qim and Mnajdra temples
5. St. John's Co-Cathedral in Valletta
6. Cliffs at the Blue Grotto in Wied iz-Zurrieq
7. National Museum of Archaeology in Valletta
8. St. Julians/Paceville nightlife
9.Upper and Lower Barrakka Gardens in Valletta
10. Hypogeum and Tarxien temples

The Eve of a Wonderful Weekend

Tomorrow, December 5th, is when the whole Netherlands celebrates Sinterklaas! There is excitement in the air, and last-minute shoppers are out scouring the stores for presents for their children. I ventured out today to find gloves for Gabriel. As I went from store to store in Hilversum's centrum, the snow was flying and the wind was cold. It seemed like every store had only one pair of gloves left, either an XS or an XXL. Most of the stores were almost empty, and the once-full chocolate shops were now showing barren shelves.

Last night at the AKO store in the train station, I found a package containing three rolls of Sinterklaas wrapping paper, two Scotch tapes, and Sinterklaas' burlap sack, all for only 3,00EUR. They were on sale, and I guess most people had already bought their burlap sacks? I couldn't leave without buying it, it was just so typical of this holiday! I hope that when I return to Canada, I can bring home all of my Sinterklaas trinkets, including my Sint and Piet puppets, a bag of pepernoten, and tiny seashells from the North Sea which I painted with Piet, Sint, and a clog of presents. It's definitely fun to get into the spirit of this uniquely Dutch holiday. It makes me want to visit other countries during their holiday seasons to see what traditions and celebrations they have!

Tomorrow morning I will give Gabriel his presents and his poem, and then when he returns home from work, we will take the train to Schipol to fly to Malta!

I still can't believe that we're going to Malta tomorrow. Malta is the most exotic place I have ever gotten the chance to visit, and I am so so so so so looking forward to seeing the sun (something I have been greatly withdrawn from living here in the overcast Netherlands). Hopefully the weather is good, and we are able to enjoy our relaxing vacation in the middle of the Mediterranean!

My Journey Back to the Anne Frank Huis

Two summers ago, Gabriel took me to Amsterdam on one of his business trips. It was my first time in Europe, and my first priority in Amsterdam was to see the Anne Frank Huis. We waited in line on the Prinsengracht during the last few hours of the hot summer day, enduring the hour long line in order to catch a glimpse of what life was like for Anne and her family.

On my first visit, I cried. Gabriel is Jewish, my grandparents lived in the Netherlands during the war, my Opa fought in the war, my Oma's family hid a Jewish man. I had so many connections to the war, and I had always cherished Anne's diary as one of my favourite books. I think the thing that triggered me was a quote on one of the walls of the museum, which said something to the effect of "I want to be remembered". If Anne only knew how large and far-reaching her legacy would be....

waiting in line during my first visit to Amsterdam

I had always wanted to revisit the canal house on the Prinsengracht, especially after reading a book about Otto Frank, Anne's father. In the novel, "The Hidden Life of Otto Frank" by Carol Ann Lee, the events of Otto Frank's life before and after the war were examined. Lee delved into how the Franks were betrayed, and who was the person that eventually led them to their deaths. A lot of place names and information was given about Amsterdam, and as I read the novel, I was amazed at how many of those places I had visited during my time in the country. I wanted desperately to re-visit the home.

the Anne Frank Huis

Two days ago I had the chance. After my visit to the Rijksmuseum, I began walking up the Prinsengracht in the direction of Centraal Station. No one was around, just the stray bicycle or person entering their canal house. Very few canal cruise tour boats were operating, and I felt as though I had the city to myself. I stopped leisurely along my walk to take photos of Amsterdam. It's unfortunate, but I have noticed that I have began to take the beauty of the canals for granted. I have very few pictures of the gabled homes, or the bicycles lining the bridges which span the canals. As I snapped photos, I began to see the Westerkerk in the distance. What a great time to visit the Anne Frank Huis. After a roughly 40 minute walk, I entered the small line to the museum. My Museumcard wasn't allowed here, so I paid the 7,50EUR admission fee and fell in step behind the rest of the visitors.

On my second trip to Anne's home, I still felt sadness and disappointment at the loss of her life (among millions of others of course). This time, however, my sadness came when I saw a photo of three men hanging out of a bunk-bed in a concentration camp. Their faces were gaunt, heads shaved, and chests bare. Despite their obvious suffering, they each bore the slightest smile...a glimmer of hope. I was almost brought to tears again inside this home.

At the end of the museum, I stopped in at the bookshop. I bought a copy of Anne's diary to re-read (I read it the first time in Grade 8). While reading the book brings great sadness, it also brings great satisfaction knowing that her dream of becoming a writer was fulfilled. Her dream of sharing her war-time story has been supported by millions of people across the world, and has impacted them in ways one cannot even imagine.

"Despite everything, I believe that people are really good at heart" ---Anne Frank

Oliebollen Season

It's around this time of the year when oliebollen, a traditional Dutch treat, start to come out in full-force. At every market, festival, or town square you can see a cart selling oliebollen. Oliebollen are literally translated to "oil balls". Sometimes they have raisins in them, and are always covered in powdered sugar. While I'm sure that they aren't good for your health, they are absolutely delicious, and should be tried at least once! Traditionally oliebollen are for New Years, but are also popular at carnivals, and around the time of Sinterklaas and Christmas.

On my first trip into Amsterdam this winter, I noticed that oliebollen stands had been set up in the Leidesplein, along with warm waffel and poffertjes stands. Yummy!

If you're in the Netherlands this winter, try some oliebollen, they really are another delectable Dutch treat to add to the list!

The Rijksmuseum

the "i am amsterdam" sign behind the Rijksmuseum

I can't believe that I have lived in the Netherlands for almost 5 months, and I just got around to visiting the Rijksmuseum. This museum is world-famous, and the top priority of most people touring Amsterdam. While I have been fortunate enough to visit tons of other museums throughout the Netherlands, the Rijsmuseum had remained elusive...until yesterday. In May, July, and September, the lines snaking around the entrance of the museum were ridiculous, always causing me to defer my visit to a later date. Yesterday, however, I walked right into the museum, through security, and to the coat check. My Museumcard allowed me to have free admission, so my entire journey into Amsterdam only cost 6,10EUR for the round-trip train ticket. To get to the Rijksmuseum from Centraal Station, take tram 2 or 5 to Hobbemastraat.

one of my favourite canals, the Prinsengracht, on my walk home

The Rijksmuseum itself is a stunning piece of architecture. It's very reminiscent to Centraal Station's architecture, and was once described as a "cathedral". There were very few people in the museum, which allowed me to browse at my own pace without fear of standing at a painting too long. One of my favourite rooms showcased doll houses from the 16th century. These miniature houses were collected by women, and often cost the same as a modest canal house in Amsterdam's centre. Another great room showcased Delft pottery, and the original Chinese style pottery from which Delft is derived from.

the entrance to the museum

The most breathtaking, and the most famous, of all pieces at the museum was Rembrandt's The Night Watch. I hadn't realized that it was such a massive canvas, and as I stood alone in front of it, I truly felt in awe. Seeing the paintings of Jan Steen, Vermeer, and Frans Hals was also wonderful. I really enjoy the traditional Dutch style of painting, which is usually very dark and heavy. After living here in the winter, where it is almost always dark or overcast, I understand why so many of the paintings were like this!

Damien Hirst's unbelieveable diamond skull

In university I studied Anatomy as well as Bioarchaeological Anthropology. Naturally, both of these disciplines dealt heavily with bones. In my last two years of school, I developed an enormous fascination with bones that still persists. Seeing the catacombs in Paris was like being a kid in a candy shop for me! So many diseased bones! I was in my element. When I discovered that the Rijksmuseum was currently showing an exhibit by Damien Hirst, I was thoroughly excited! I followed the glow-in-the-dark arrows through a winding black hallway until I reached a pitch-black room. The room could've been the size of an airplane hanger, or the size of a small closet...you literally could not tell! In the center of the room, there was a glass case with a spotlight on it. Within the case was a male skull from 1800, covered completely in diamonds. The skull has over 8,000 diamonds, and a large pearshaped diamond on the forehead (52.4 carat). It was truly amazing to see, and is currently valued at $100 million.

A Visit to Nijmegen

Nijmegen is considered to be the oldest city in the Netherlands. Gabriel and I were fortunate enough to have visited this city before, for the 4 Walking Days of Nijmegen, back in the summer. We decided last weekend to drive to the city again, to really explore and take in all the sights. We drove for about an hour in our rental car, and ended up circling the city numerous times before finally finding the center. During our drive we saw a crazy bicycle zooming down the road, and an area with tons of piles of some sort of root-vegetable.

piles and piles of vegetables...what are these called?

the cool bicycle that kept passing us!

A market was set up on Saturday in Nijmegen's center, and while we browsed around in the freezing cold, we continually kept our eyes peeled for a cozy cafe. We entered Cafe Bielssen and ordered warm chocomel! Chocomel is a type of chocolate-milk drink from the Netherlands, and it tastes even better heated up! Every evening after dinner Gabriel warms me up a cup of chocolately goodness on the stove!

mmmm deliciousness

When leaving the restaurant we were immediately bombared with the sweet and savory smells of pancakes? fried dough?......OLIEBOLLEN??? Yes! A small festive little oliebollen stand was right near our restaurant, and we couldn't resist buying one of the powdered sugar treats. We bought the ones with raisins, and after eating them, my black jacket was completely white from the sugar! We walked through the main streets of Nijmegen, and in and out of all the funky stores. One store sold the complete line of Blond Amsterdam (my favourite line of accessories, dishes, and stationary)!



Nijmegen is a beautiful city, not only because of its old history, but because it is situated on rolling hills (unlike most other Dutch cities). Its cobblestone streets are winding and steep, and can be compared to a European version of San Francisco!