Riomaggiore, Italy

Riomaggiore Harbor

We left Pisa early on Friday morning and headed to Cinque Terre. As I mentioned before, Cinque Terre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which basically means that it has been protected from gawdy tourist traps and commercialization. The funding from UNESCO has allowed each of the five villages to retain their natural beauty and unique charm. It is for this reason that Cinque Terre is often called Italy's "Hidden Riviera". It is a less popular destination than the Amalfi Coast and Portofino, but some believe that it is more spectacular because of its rustic beauty. Cinque Terre still seemed to host a lot of tourists, however, since most signs were in English, Italian, and German.

Riomaggiore

Our journey to Cinque Terre began with a train ride from Pisa Centrale to La Spezia, and then on to Riomaggiore. As the train plugged along, getting closer and closer to the coast, we began to encounter higher mountains with their peaks in the clouds. Just before arriving in Riomaggiore, our train entered a tunnel, and continued through it for about 5 minutes. We could see flashes of the Mediterranean through the small windows in the tunnel before being plunged into complete darkness again. Finally we emerged from the tunnel to blinding sun, and stunning blue water. As we stepped off the train we were absolutely shocked by the view. The train station is right on the cliff side, and the platform directly overlooks the sea. Gorgeous!

Stepping off the train

We met up with Simone, the man who's apartment we were renting out. It was a cute little 2 bedroom built into the side of a mountain. After settling in, Simone brought us a bag of fresh lemons, rosemary, and thyme that he collected from the garden. We ventured into town to get some lunch, although it was still pretty early in the morning. On our way we found the beautiful harbor of Riomaggiore, and had to take a look around! We dined on pizza and pasta (tagliolini with pesto is a regional specialty) with dry white wine from Cinque Terre. Delicious! Later in the evening we met up with Christian, our friend who lives in Torino! It was so good to see him again, and to hear all about his European adventures. We finished off the night with a dinner at La Grotto and drinks at a small bar in the town square.

Enjoying some regional cuisine

Riomaggiore is the southernmost of the five villages of Cinque Terre. Each village is so small that you could probably see 3 in a day, and still get a good feel for each of them. Riomaggiore can be described as a hilltop town with a picturesque harbor, tiny alleyways, bountiful lemon trees, and nice restaurants. On our second day in Italy we bought trail passes to the Via dell'Amore (Lover's Walk), which connects Riomaggiore to Manarola, another village. All of the five villages are connected by walking trails, although the Via dell'Amore is the flatest and newly paved. The walk lasted only 30 minutes, and gave us stunning views of the mountains and sea. To walk through all of the 5 villages using the trails, it would probably take you 5 hours. The Via dell'Amore is covered with "love graffiti" from people throughout the years. There are even hearts with initials carved into the cacti! Gabriel and I had to write our names in the tunnel. Now our names are forever inscribed in two of the most romantic places in the world: Romeo and Juliet's home in Verona, and the Via dell'Amore of Cinque Terre :)

Via dell'Amore

Pisa, Italy

We're back from a whirlwind Italian weekend! I have to admit, it feels nice to be back in Amsterdam, sleeping in my own bed and eating my bland Dutch food :) Here's a recap of our 4 day trip to Pisa and Cinque Terre, a string of five villages clinging to the cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean.


We flew from Schiphol to Pisa via Transavia, a low-cost Dutch airline. The flight took 1 hour and 40 minutes, and once we landed, we decided to take advantage of our 8:00am arrival by visiting the Leaning Tower of Pisa before the hoards of tourists came. Gabriel had already visited it, but since I hadn't, we decided to take the short 10 minute bus ride to see it. There were hardly any people around, and it was serene wandering through the grounds surrounding the tower. I always find it surreal to see structures (ie. the Eiffel Tower, Leaning Tower of Pisa, Empire State Building) which I have seen images of my entire life. We all know what these buildings look like, but when you finally see them in person, it's a strange feeling. You almost feel like you've seen them before, and it can be somewhat underwhelming. At least that was the case with the Leaning Tower. We saw it, we took some pictures, we walked around it. That was it!

We could have gone up the tower, but decided against it. Instead, we found a bar (a cafe in Italy) and drank cappuccinos while munching on delicious pastries at an outdoor patio. I found Pisa to be a really nice Italian city, with beautiful yellow and terra cotta coloured buildings. It was very touristy, but if you venture just outside of the region of the Piazza dei Miracoli (where the tower is) you will be charmed by the rustic Italian buildings, newspaper stands, and tiny bars.

Parisian Bakery

This morning on my way home from work I stopped by one of the best bakeries in Amsterdam. Gebroeders Niemeijer on Nieuwendijk 35 is reminiscent of an authentic Parisian bakery. Vaulted ceilings, fresh white walls, and crisp clean decor allows the racks and rows of freshly baked bread to take center stage. Macaroons, chocolate and lemon tarts, croissants, and cranberry scones are displayed artfully around the counter, making it impossible to walk away with just a loaf of bread.

While we have tried many warme bakkers in Amsterdam, this is by far some of the best bread I've had. It even rivals the Turkish bakery that I wrote about on the weekend! I ordered the Batard bread, and it was perfectly crispy on the outside, fresh on the inside. The mini chocolate croissant was delicious as well, again a perfect mix of crispy and soft.



Gebroeders Niemeijer also offers a sit-down menu with light fare, mostly salads and broodjes (small sandwiches, Parisian style). The staff are mostly Parisian, and while not the friendliest, the food more than makes up for it. For one loaf of bread it cost 2 euro, and the croissant was 1,25. Expensive? Not much more than bread from Albert Heijn, and this will be definitely enjoyed :)

C'est bon!

Working Woman

It appears my life of leisure, while I waited for my SOFI number, has ended. At first I was excited about having so many jobs, and welcomed the opportunity to work, meet new people, and feel productive during the day. After yesterday's experience, however, I will never undervalue my "days off" again.

The day started off normal, working in the bar as usual, brewing up Irish coffees and serving pints of Guinness. In the afternoon, however, I was asked to work at the hostel and clean some of the rooms. Ok, I thought...it can't be that bad. Wrong. It was, to put it lightly, the seediest dirtiest most disgusting experience of my life. It was a one star hostel, but I'm pretty sure it shouldn't have gotten that star. The clean blankets were stained and ripped, filled with cigarette burns, and the matresses looked like relics from the 1930's (and had never been cleaned since). Five floors of ankle-twisting staircases, with a crazy cat (ps. I HATE cats) jumping on me while I vacuumed, and leftover Amsterdam delights in every room. It was the longest 3 hours of my life, and when I left, I felt like I was teeming with bugs. The entire time I cleaned, I kept thinking, "I have a degree! I am going to Nyenrode next year! What am I doing here? No amount of money is worth this!"

Needless to say my short stint as a housekeeper has ended. I'm perfectly happy working behind a bar, cooking simple breakfasts and cleaning in the evenings. I draw the line at seedy Amsterdam hostels that, from a safety perspective, shouldn't even be allowed to exist.

Amsterdam`s Best Cake Shop

Dessert, anyone?

On the weekend we discovered the best kept secret in the Pijp: De Taart van m'n Tante. The name literally means "The cake from my Auntie". Located on Ferdinand Bolstraat 10, right across from the Heinekenplein, De Taart van m'n Tante is the cutest kitschiest cake-shop in Amsterdam. The shop was opened in 1990 by two men, Siemon De Jong and Noam Offer, who conjured up wacky and sugary edible creations. Today, the shop also houses a B&B called "Cake Under My Pillow".


When you step inside De Taart, you are met with mismatched antique painted chairs, flowery table cloths, ridiculously colourful plastic cakes, and hot pink flamingoes. The menu boasts roughly 20-30 cakes, and delicious teas and coffees to accompany them.


De Taart has been described as "Barbie and Ken's House" or "Uber Kitsch", but it is also reminiscent of Alice's tea party in Wonderland. I loved it, and even Gabriel thought it was cool!

Delicious

I sipped Mr. Jone's Monkey Wedding tea and ate the poppy seed cake. The food was yummy, and I'm eagerly awaiting going back to see what else I can try :)

Visit www.detaart.com for more info.

Gratis Bloemen

I had an interview this morning, and on my way home I stopped at Dirk in the Heinekenplein to pick up some milk. There were a few cashiers open, so I chose one at random and lined up my milk behind a young girl with heaps of food. When it was my turn, the cashier handed me a bouquet of long-stem hot pink roses.

That totally made my day.

I chopped them down and put them in a little square vase that was standing on our back patio.

Spring Weekend

Daffodils. Crocuses. Walks along the Singel.
Little Big Planet marathon.
Home-made Guacamole.
Dinner with friends.
Beers at O'Donnell's and Turkish kebab.
Sun.
A perfect weekend.

Fresh Breakfast

A weekend trip to the market supplied us with all the perfect ingredients for a fresh Saturday morning breakfast. The highlight, however, was a huge loaf of delicious bread from the Turkish bakery (warme bakker) outside our doorstep. We also found cheddar cheese at a stall in the market, which we haven't found since our time in the Netherlands! And of course, we got a bouquet of pale yellow tulips to add some spring cheer to our apartment!

Amsterdam To-Do List

Yesterday Gabriel sent me a link to the Noordermarkt, and wrote "Let's go here on Saturday!" That small e-mail got me thinking.....what should I see/do in Amsterdam that I haven't already? I remember my first visit to the city. I was bogged down with a few travel books, a detailed itinerary, and a knowledge of the historical aspects of Amsterdam. After having traveled here roughly 7 times, I began to stop thinking of exciting new places to visit, and began to rely on tried-and-true faves.

I think it's time to change it up a bit. This city has so so so much to offer, and I miss the days of setting out, Lonely Planet in hand, and seeing all the sites in a particular area. Now I go to the same markets, the same streets, and the same shops. It's nice to have carved out a niche in the city, but I shouldn't miss out on seeing different things.

Ok, so here is my list of things that I've always wanted to do in Amsterdam, yet have never gotten around to it. By the time school starts in August, I hope to have done these!

1. Heineken Experience Tour - it's a 1 minute walk from my apartment, so I have no excuse :P
2. The Hermitage Museum
3. Rembrandt House - how have I not seen this?! disgraceful.
4. Tropenmuseum
5. NEMO
6. Indonesian Rice Tafel
7. Tour the inside of Konijnklijk Paleis
8. Walk to the top of the Westerkerk
9. Tour Nieuwe and Oude Kerks
10. Bike around the city - i am scared.
11. High tea at the Amstel Hotel - this should be my number 1, but i'm too tired to rearrange this
12. Noordermarkt
13. Party at Paradiso
14. Party at Melkweg
15. Friday night concert in Vondel Park
16. Visit Film Theater in Vondel Park
17. Celebrate Queen's Day! - can't wait for this
18. Dine at Okura - i heard that even your purse gets its own chair
19. Watch the sunrise over the canals
20. Watch the sunset over Amsterdam's rooftops

What would be on your Amsterdam to-do list?

What Recession?

When it rains, it pours.

Today I began my first day of work at a sports bar in the Leidseplein. It was so much fun, and I actually really enjoyed being a waitress (this was my first job in the restaurant industry). The bar serves pancakes and English breakfasts, and it was a great time talking to the tourists from England, America, New Zealand, and Italy.

When I got home, I checked my e-mails, and found out that yet another bar called asking to hire me. That brings the total up to 3 (plus my nanny-ing job part-time). An hour later, my phone rang, and a diamond company called requesting an interview. 5 jobs?! Isn't there a recession going on right now? Aren't jobs hard to come by? Apparently all you need to do is flee to Amsterdam and spend one week job hunting.

It seems I have some options, which is always nice. At least I know I'll be busy until school starts!

Upcoming Italy Holiday

Cinque Terre

Ok, now it's time to start getting excited about my upcoming trip to Italy in 10 days! We booked the tickets a few weeks ago, but with the move and the job-hunt etc etc, I haven't had time to think about it. Now that it's getting closer, however, I feel like blogging about it and getting my excitement up!

We're flying into Pisa for a long weekend in Cinque Terre, on the Mediterranean coast. Since I haven't seen the Leaning Tower, we are going to visit before taking the train down to Cinque Terre. Gabriel and I are meeting up with our friend Christian, who currently lives in Torino. We'll spend the long weekend hiking through the string of 5 villages which comprise Cinque Terre, eating delicious pesto, and sipping dry white wines from the region. I can't wait!

Cinque Terre is also a UNESCO world heritage site, obviously steeped in a rich history with plenty of photo opportunities. Maybe Gabriel will be annoyed with my incessant photo-taking, but Christian is also a photo-lover, so now it will be two against one :P

We're staying at a tiny apartment that is rented out by an old Italian man. Hopefully we'll be able to cook some of our own meals at the apartment using the freshest Italian ingredients. This is my second time going to Italy (read about my first time in Italy here), and I'm looking forward to seeing a different part of the country.

Yay! Ten days...the countdown is on :)

photo from http://www.peoplecorporation.org/display_post.php?p=6200

Amsterdam's Quartier Latin

Another morning strolling through the Albert Cuyp

Unique art is everywhere in De Pijp

Today I had to walk down to Karel du Jardinstraat 65 to register at the Amsterdam Municipal building. Whilst there, I picked up a few English-language brochures on the area where I now live, De Pijp. I have always had a hard time describing De Pijp to others, often comparing it to a "Bohemian village", something like "Greenwich Village" in NYC. However, it also boasts some of the highest home prices in Amsterdam, and has become one of the trendiest areas to live in the city. Again, this fails to describe De Pijp accurately though, since it is definitely not pretentious (like the Herengracht or Jordaan area can be). What makes the Pijp unique is the cultural diversity which pours out of every ounce of the neighbourhood. The Pijp boasts more than 144 nationalities, which are evidently shown in various authentic ethnic food shops and restaurants.

Graffiti adds charm and uniqueness to this area of the city

After reading through a small brochure outlinging a "Town Walk" of De Pijp, I feel that I have finally hit the nail on the head in describing this neighbourhood: Amsterdam's Latin Quarter.

The Pijp has a lively history, one riddled with cabaret shows, 1800s brothels, and an entrepreneurial spirit. In the 1800s, the area which is now Sarphati Park was supposed to house Amsterdam's Centraal Station. It wasn't until roughly 1880 that the government decided to place the station on the Ij harbor that Sarphati Park became the natural oasis that it is today. Housing prices were never very cheap in De Pijp, which caused many people to rent out homes to students, many of whom studied in Latin, giving the Pijp its name "the Latin Quarter."

This street along SarphatiPark is named "The Velvet Edge"

As I have written about before, the Albert Cuyp Market is the heart of the Oude Pijp. The market was opened in 1905, due to the broad width of the street, and its central location in the neighbourhood. Apparently the market attracts more than 40,000 people on busy Saturdays!

I hope to write more about my new neighbourhood, perhaps including "must-sees" and specific interesting tidbits of history from this area. In the meantime, I will enjoy visiting the tapas bars and tiny cafes that this area has to offer, and begin making a mental list of my favourites to share with you all :)

Maastricht

A delicious ham and egg breakfast, watching the sun stream through the open windows of the apartment, led to one exciting question..."where should we go on a road-trip to today?"

My vote was for Volendam and Marken, but Gabriel had something a little further away in mind: Maastricht. Ever since we arrived in the Netherlands, we have heard nothing but praise for Maastricht, and how we simply must visit it! Maastricht is the southern-most city of the Netherlands, and a 5 minute walk from Belgium. It is also very close to the German border, and not far from France. Maastricht is sometimes called the "oldest city" in the Netherlands, and is famous for the "mountains" (more like small hills, but compared to the rest of the Netherlands, it is remarkable) surrounding the city. It took 2.5 hours by car to get there, and we parked in a brand new underground garage in the Vrijthof square.


Even though it was a Sunday, the shops were open and the streets were alive with people. Immediately I noticed differences between Maastricht and the rest of the Netherlands. Although I love love love Holland, I have to admit that a lot of the cities and towns tend to look the same. In general, they have the same architecture, the same abundance of bicycles, and the same shops. Maastricht, however, felt like a separate country. It was reminiscent of Paris, with large sprawling street cafes, grandiose architecture, and manicured gardens. However, there were Belgian step-gabled buildings, and of course, plenty of canal-style homes.



We ate lunch at a beautiful cafe, called La Bonne Femme, and enjoyed the late afternoon sun as we sipped tea and ate quiche and French onion soup. Then we walked along the old Medieval walls of the city, looking at the canons, the swans, and the random goat park. I loved all of the buildings, and Gabriel especially liked St. Jan's Cathedral, which is a large church in the Vrijthof square that is red in colour.


After walking around the rest of the city for the afternoon, and grabbing two ijshorns (ice cream cones) we hopped back into the car and made it home to Amsterdam.

Such a wonderful road-trip, I would definitely recommend seeing Maastricht on your visit to the Netherlands!

Two Jobs?

Well, that was easy-ish.

I went from being unemployed to having two part-time jobs in a span of 3 hours this morning. After my long day of "pounding the pavement" on Friday, I had a few interviews set up for this morning. My first stop was the Satellite Sports Cafe on the Leidseplein, a popular bar that serves traditional English breakfasts and pancakes. This wasn't really so much of an interview as a "you're hired, when can you start" type of conversation. I'm a bit nervous about working in a bar, since I haven't worked in the restaurant industry before, but I think I'll pick it up quickly. I start on Wednesday. After that it was on to O'Donnell's Irish Pub near the Heinekenplein. I met with the owner, and he told me that they were looking for kitchen staff/cleaner. Ermmmm.....I said yes?! It should be ok though, considering that it's a part-time job and it pays 2 euro an hour extra than the sports bar. Plus, it's right around the corner from my apartment, and the atmosphere is quieter and more quaint than the sports cafe.

So, two jobs in three hours. I wonder how this will pan out. Regardless, they are just part-time jobs and will hopefully help me make some extra money before school starts, allowing me to travel travel travel!

Pounding the Pavement

All week long I have been job-hunting, after finally receiving a SOFI number. I knew that it would be difficult finding a job during the economic crisis, but I didn't think that it would be as hard as in North America. I also didn't factor in my lack of Dutch language skills...

I've been at it all week, and so far no luck. There are a few different potential aspects, but my dream of cycling 2 minutes to the Rijksmuseum to work in a cushy museum job has been crushed. After the advice of some of Gabriel's colleagues, I walked to the Leidseplein this afternoon to visit some of the Irish/British pubs. The Leidseplein is a main square in Amsterdam, and a hub for tourists. Lots of great nightclubs are located there, including Melkweg and Paradiso. It was only a 10 minute walk, and I systematically went in and out of all English/tourist type bars. I filled out a ton of applications, and spoke to some really friendly Irish folk, but I was left with only one serious potential, and I have to meet back with them on Monday. Then it was off to find the Blarney Stone pub, located on the Korte Nieuwedijk. I decided to fore-go the tram ride and walk there, considering Gabriel and I indulged in banana splits the night before. The walk lasted around 30 minutes, but I had a great time popping in and out of little stores that I hadn't seen before. I found the British/American food store, and bought a case of buttery popcorn. Can you believe that I have not seen popcorn for sale here? Well, at the movie theaters, and pre-popped in little bags, but not the microwavable type. Score!


I found the Blarney Stone, talked to the owner, and then continued on my way. The next stop was the Grasshopper Cafe, a famous coffeeshop and bar near Centraal Station. The Grasshopper is not my first choice, and since I do not partake in these uniquely Amsterdam delights, I feel that it might not be the best fit...but hey, I'm desperate to make some money and lots of English-speaking tourists frequent it. I also caved and walked to the Warmoestraat to find Murphy's and another Scottish pub, although once again, this area is near the Red Light District and can be somewhat sketchy. Doubtful that I will go back there.

Finally it was time to head home. My tram left me on the Weteringcircuit, near all the freshly bloomed flowers. A block from home I stopped in at O'Donnell's pub, a famous Irish bar near the Heinekenplein. They're hiring, and I have a meeting on Monday! They usually only hire people from the UK, so we'll see how that pans out. Perhaps I can fake an accent? Haha!

I feel productive, and even if none of these jobs work out, at least I had a great afternoon walking about Amsterdam in the warm spring weather.

Love From Amsterdam

Here are some finds from a walk around the block.
Hugs and Kisses to family and friends back home, especially my little niece Kendra.

Albert Cuyp Market

One of the wonderful things about our new home is its close proximity to the famous Albert Cuyp Market, located on the appropriately-named Albert Cuypstraat. When we first decided to move to Amsterdam, I had visions of myself strolling daily through the market stalls, picking up some fresh flowers and ingredients for that evening's dinner. I'm happy to say that, finally, that vision has become a reality. The Albert Cuyp is one of the largest markets in the Netherlands (if not the largest), and is held daily. Everything you need can be found at the market, from fresh food to stylish clothing, souvenirs to antique furniture. I love just walking down the long street, saying "goedemorgen" (good morning) to the familiar vendors and browsing the little stalls. Each stall is as diverse and authentic as its owner, and visiting the market really makes me feel like I'm in the hub of Amsterdam.

The market on a Thursday afternoon

Yesterday I picked up a loaf of fresh bread, some appel-flappen (soooo fattening, but my favourite Dutch treat), and a fresh whole roasted chicken...all for only 5 euro! Needless to say, that evening's meal was delicious. On Monday, however, I had a slightly different experience at the market. Gabriel and I had been talking about getting a plant for the apartment, to make it feel more "home-y". We saw someone walking through the market with a large palm tree, and decided that that would be a perfect addition to our woonkamer (living room).

The pickled herring stall

On Monday afternoon, I spotted the shop that sold plants at the Albert Cuyp market. On impulse, I found the largest palm tree in the entire store and asked for them to wrap it up for me. After paying, I walked home, carrying the large stone-grey ceramic pot, and then returned for the palm later. They had wrapped it up in plastic, and struggling, I carried the huge beast home. I looked ridiculous, hoisting the pot on my hip and holding on for dear life. The palm is 10 ft tall, and as I carried it, was easily 15ft in the air. The Dutch showed their sense of humor, however, smiling and commenting on my new purchase. When I reached home, my arms fell like limp noodles. It was only then that I realized that I had to carry the thing up the stairs! Somehow, super-human adrenaline and strength overcame me, and I was able to reach our apartment. Needless to say, Ferdigund, our palm, looks absolutely gorgeous in the corner of the room, silohuetted against the white walls and breezy window.

Our living room so far, with the new palm

It was well worth the effort :)