High Tea at the Amstel Hotel

We just got back from "High Tea" at the luxurious Amstel Hotel. The Amstel Hotel is the finest hotel in Amsterdam, and the choice of public figures such as The Rolling Stones, U2, and Nelson Mandela. It is also where the Dutch Royal Family hosts many events, and accommodates visiting dignitaries and royalty from around the world. When Princess Maxima entered the Royal Family in 2002, guests of the wedding were housed here. It was built in 1867, has 55 rooms and 24 suites, and boasts a Michelin star restaurant.

Amstel Hotel

Coincidentally, my family relatives lived in the hotel some 50 years ago. It was particularly interesting for me, therefore, to imagine what their lives must have been like, living along the Amstel River in this beautiful place.


High tea occurs at 1:00pm or 4:00pm in the hotel's conservatory. Beautiful palm trees, hanging pink flowers, and grandiose chandeliers adorn the room, which has great views over the river and the surrounding area. We were treated to six different types of tea, from places like Taiwan, China, and Japan. We munched on mini-sandwiches (cucumber, smoked salmon, egg salad, and turkey), scones with clotted cream, pastries, truffles, and tiny buns with tartar. Since we ordered the Royal High Tea, we were also given hot treats, and access to a bubbling chocolate fountain. Yum!

High-tea

It was absolutely beautiful, and I felt like I was living out my childhood dream of having a decadent tea-party.

Alkmaar Cheese Market

On Friday my parents and I visited the world-famous Alkmaar Cheese Market. We got up early to take the train into Alkmaar, a 40 minute journey from Amsterdam Centraal. Signs leading through the city center point Friday morning visitors to the cheese market. When we arrived, hundreds of wheels of cheese were being unloaded off of Beemster trucks and lined up in the market square. Fresh grass was sprinkled around the yellow wheels, and men in white costumes with brightly coloured cheese-guild hats were starting to emerge.

Nearby market stalls

We had a "cupje koffie" and "appeltaart" at Cafe t'Haartje as we watched the spectacle being set up. Although the cheese market is now just for tourists, it originates in the 1700s, and was a way for companies to buy and sell their cheese for the week. It still takes place on the original market square, and attracts hundreds of tourists from all around the world. The presentation is done in Dutch, German, French, and English, all while beautiful bells sound from the weigh-house.

Cheese porters discussing cheese?

After watching the cheese-porters cart the wheels of Gouda, Edam, and Leiden cheese through the market, to the weigh scale, and onto the wooden carriages, we headed out to the surrounding area to enjoy the festivities. Poffertjes stalls were set up, as well as stalls selling a number of crafts and specialty items. For only 50 cents you could buy a huge triangle of cheese, cut by a man wearing a traditional Dutch costume with clogs! The street organ was playing, and the shops were catering to the hoards of tourists, willing to pay top price for a piece of "Dutch"
merchandise.

Poffertjes (small Dutch pancakes)

I had been wanting to visit the cheese market ever since it appeared on the Amazing Race a few seasons ago. Although super-touristy, where else in the world can you see hundreds of cheese wheels and people in traditional Dutch dress? The surrounding city of Alkmaar is beautiful too, with great shopping and boat cruises.

The best part is, the whole show is free, and you step away feeling like you saw a piece of fun Dutch history.

World Press Photo

Last week we visited Amsterdam's Oude Kerk (Old Church), where the World Press Photo Exhibition was taking place. World Press Photo hosts the world's largest photojournalism contest, and the winning photographs from various categories were displayed in this historic church. Walking through the enormous church, with its wood painted ceilings and 18th century organ, was a treat in itself. Seeing the photographs depicting conflicts throughout the world, the burden of the economic crisis, and the rest of this year's events (Beijing Olympics, Obama election, etc) was a unique experience. I loved seeing the independent photojournalists interpretations of these events, and the intense situations that these dedicated artists endure to capture the perfect shot.

With my Dutch Museumkaart I was allowed free admission, but for adults it costs around 6 euro each. It was well worth it, and the whole exhibition took roughly an hour to walk through. The Oude Kerk is in the heart of the Red Light District, and seems like a peaceful haven in the midst of the garish shops and sleazy atmosphere of the neighbourhood.

The exhibition runs until the end of June, and is not to be missed for any photography or journalism lovers.

Visit www.worldpressphoto.org for more information on this traveling exhibition.

Midsland

Look what we found during a bike ride through Midsland, on the island of Terschelling. This koe (cow) was popping out of a derelict barn on a small cobblestone street. As we passed by, he let out a low mooooo, startling us and prompting a photosession. The weather-worn door, purple flower bush, and old bricks make this a beautiful sight, and of course the cow is an unexpected surprise!


Midsland is a small village in the middle of the island. My Oma had told me that we would find many Pals family relatives (buried) in the church cemetery. Our last name is not popular. In Canada, most people find our last name unique and hard to understand (Pauls? Pallace? Pels? Palls?) My whole life I have had to resort to saying "Pals, just like friends" when trying to explain my name. Of course, I get those "original" sayings like "you're my best pal.....get it? get it?" It wasn't until I arrived in the Netherlands that people began to view my last name as normal. However, I have had to alter how I say it. Instead of saying Pals, like friends, I now say "Pauls" which is the original Dutch pronunciation. If I say Pals, people think I mean Pels.

When we arrived at the church cemetery, I immediately had the most surreal and inexplicable feeling. There were Pals names on almost all of the headstones, dating back to the 1800s (although our history on the island dates back many centuries earlier). To come from such a small family, and to see the place where it all began, was truly amazing.


In North America, people often identify themselves with their grandparent's heritage. For example, when people ask where I'm from, I will say I'm Dutch, Polish, and English. Others will say they are Italian, Scottish, Irish, or Greek, and rarely you will hear people say they are Canadian (because, after all, the only original Canadians are the First Nations people). The majority of Canadians are immigrant families, so everyone has a story about their heritage. This is what makes living in North America such a rich experience. There are Little Italies, China towns, and Polish districts. You can find great ethnic restaurants, and hear of your classmates celebrating holidays different than your own. So for me, having always described myself as half-Dutch, it was quite the experience visiting the teensy island where it all began, and to see so many people who look just like me, still taking part in the sea-faring tasks of our ancestors.

Terschelling

My parents and I just returned to Amsterdam from a vacation in Terschelling. Terschelling is a Frisian island in the North Sea, and is the place where my ancestors originated. It was one of the most meaningful and surreal experiences of my life; to visit the place where my family began.

Today, Terschelling is a popular summer holiday spot for fellow Dutch people, who are looking to get away from the sometimes cramped living quarters of the city and relax in nature. Famous for its cranberry bogs, seals, and nautical past (many famous shipwrecks are found around the island), Terschelling is a great destination to experience coastal living. The North Sea brings fierce winds to the island, and our 28km bike-ride soon turned into a brutal experience when we had to ride back into the wind. The population of the island is only 4,700 and we were able to see most of the island in a short amount of time.

I will post more about our amazing heritage-filled vacation later, but for now, I leave you with some of my photographs that capture the essence of this beautiful northern island.

Colourful houses along the marina

Terschelling bird

Sheep herded on an island farm

Reminders of the island's nautical way of life

Dunes on the Oosterend (East End)

Boats in the harbor

When You Visit Amsterdam...

... try some bitterballen at a sidewalk cafe. They're deep-fried balls of meat/sauce mixture, and served dipped in mustard. Bitterballen are a traditional Dutch snack, and you'll feel like one of the locals immediately after tasting them. They go excellently with a frosty Grolsch or Heineken!

My parents and I ate some bitterballen while people-watching near Het Spui. They were amazed at the sheer amount of bicycles, the viciousness of the trams, and the beauty of the slanting canal houses.

Have a Nice Weekend!

I'm so excited. My parents are flying into Amsterdam tonight. It's been 4 months since I last saw them, and I can't wait to spend two amazing weeks together. I call them every night on Skype, so I'm sure they've conjured up some image of what life's like for me in Europe. It will be so nice for them to actually see what I do here daily, and how Amsterdam has changed since they last saw it (backpacking through Europe when they were my age!)

Welcome to all the new readers who came here via "I Pick Pretty"! She did a great feature on Life Abroad for her New Blogger series, check it out here!

The next few days I plan to relax with my parents, help them get over their jet-lag, and visit some great sidewalk cafes in the neighbourhood.



Enjoy your weekend!

Dutch Bike Riding Behaviour

In the Netherlands, bikes are used daily by the majority of the population. They aren't just a novelty to have in your garage and use on a sunny afternoon along a local trail. In the early morning, you can see men and women in full business suits on their rickety bikes along the canals. School children, some riding with the guidance of a parent, are found safely riding down the bike paths. Babies are found on the backs of bikes, or in a front carrier. Even small toddlers ride small foot-pedaled bikes at an early age, preparing to embark on a lifetime of cycling.

Side-by-side cyclists, complete with bicycle carrying cases

The Netherlands is perhaps the best place in the world to ride a bike. Almost the entire country is flat, and connected through a series of paved bicycle paths, complete with bike street lights! Since my time here in the Netherlands, I have seen everything on a bike. One day I saw a child cycling down the busy Amsterdam streets, her mother on the back of the bike, and her younger brother straddling in the front. Crazy! I've seen people moving into a new apartment, using their bike as a moving van. One bike was piled high with a microwave, rug, and ironing board!

Hitching a ride

People here have a unique talent when it comes to bike riding. They can talk on their phones (although it is against the law, I believe), text message, and balance their daily shopping on a handle bar, all while zooming through the twisting cobblestone streets in the rain.

SMS'ing and cycling

One woman that I saw in Hilversum will always stay in my mind. She was cycling uphill through the Beatrix Tunnel near our home. This woman must have been around 85 years old. Her three Albert Heijn blue and white shopping bags were slung over one handlebar, and in her other hand she held an enormous cone of fries with mayo from Smullers. She was literally cycling uphill, one-handed, with a heavy load on her bike. I was so impressed by her bike-riding skills, that I always tell this story to Dutch friends who simply smile and say "Of course! Bike riding is like walking to us!"

Dusseldorf, Germany

On Sunday we drove 30 minutes north of Cologne to Dusseldorf, a smaller city known for fashion and commerce. Christian was flying back to Italy from Dusseldorf, so we had the afternoon to explore before his flight.



My impression of Dusseldorf was that it was a medium-sized city, featuring lots of great shopping boutiques and a plethora of restaurants and street cafes. One street housed only Spanish, Argentinian, and Mexican restaurants. As we walked through it, we were hassled by the waiters to visit their eateries. Being with an Argentinian (Gabriel) and a Mexican (Christian), we were able to understand their grumbled comments and desperate attempts for business.

Boardwalk along the Rhine

We made our way down to the Rhine, where we found a open-air street market (yay!) selling mostly vintage books and knick-knacks. Along the river there was a boardwalk, and a string of probably 100 restaurants! We walked along in the sun, watching the enormous barges rolling down the river. A fragrant restaurant caught our attention, and we settled in for an absolutely delicious snack of Reibekuchen: fried potato pancakes with sour cream or apple sauce on top!

Reibekuchen

After finishing our greasy feast, we continued on to the main area of town. I loved seeing the architecture and the winding cobblestone streets. I wish we had more time in Dusseldorf, but then again, it's only an 1.5 hour drive away, so I'm sure we'll be back soon! Before heading back to the airport, we stopped at a brauhaus for the boys to eat another meal (I swear, when the three of us get together, we are obsessed with eating all the local delicacies of where we are visiting!) I had a coffee and apple streudel, while the boys feasted on sausages, sauerkraut, potato salad, and beer.


Our German weekend can be summed up with three words: friends, food, and fast-driving. We are planning a roadtrip for this summer, through the south of Germany, and I could not be more excited!

Does anyone have good tips on where to visit? I'm especially interested in visiting a castle, because I have yet to see one of those huge fairy-tale castles in Europe (I've only been to the Muiderslot, but somehow that pales in comparison to places like Heidelberg).

Cologne, Germany

We loved the beautiful German city of Cologne. The impressive Dom Cathedral, the cozy wooden "brauhauses" and the brightly coloured homes instantly charmed us. On Saturday morning we met with our friend Christian and his family, and got a personal tour of the city. We ate a huge lunch at Brauhaus Lion, where Gabriel ate a meter-long sausage! I had delicious marinated beef with potato dumplings. The waiters at the brauhauses have little round beer carriers, allowing them to bring lots of beer to the table at once. For each beer that you drink, they make a little mark on a coaster. At the end of the meal, they tally up the marks and you pay the bill. I always thought that German beers were served in huge glasses. On this trip, however, we found out that different cities have different brews, and each brew is served in a different type of glass. In Cologne they serve Kolsch, a blond beer which is poured into small narrow glasses.

Brauhaus Lion

Keeping track of beers we drank

We spent the afternoon strolling through the city streets, along the Reine, and back to the Dom Cathedral. It was so massive, and so intricately designed, that it made all other cathedrals that I've seen pale in comparison. Building began in 1248, and finished in 1880. Today they are still restoring pieces of the Dom, although it miraculously survived the heavy WWII bombings. The inside was just as impressive, with gorgeous stained glass windows and enormous vaulted ceilings. There is also a shrine inside which is believed to house the remains of the Three Wise Men! While we didn't get a chance to climb to the top, Christian did, and said that there were roughly 500 steps to the top!

Outside of the Dom (in new Armani trenchcoat)

The back of the Dom

For dinner we headed to Fruh, a Brauhaus near the Dom. I had the most delicious meal ever! Brauhausworst with fried potatoes and cabbage salad. Gabriel and Christian also feasted on German foods, such as schnitzel and Fruhteller. Yumm! We were so full after that meal!

German deliciousness

The Dom was beautiful at night, lit up and looming in the dark sky. It boggles my mind how after such a short drive, we were able to be in a completely different country! Munster was also a beautiful German city, but still felt a great deal like the Netherlands. Cologne, however, felt completely unique, and offered all of the great German foods that you always hear about! A beautiful city, and we will definitely be back soon!

The great shopping outside the Dom Hotel

The German Autobahn

On Saturday, Gabriel and I drove 2.5 hours to Koln (Cologne) Germany. We were scheduled to meet up with our good friend, Christian, who's family originated in Koln. The drive took us through the southeast of the Netherlands, through small villages like Grave (which we passed through in 30 seconds). It also took us on the Autobahn, the German super-speed highway.

German Autobahn Sign

In North America, the Autobahn is often mentioned with a magical reverance. It is considered something other-worldly, unbelievable, and astonishing. Really all it is is a German highway, where you can drive without speed limits. The recommended speed of the area we were in was 130km/h. However, after driving at 130km/h we realized that we were indeed impeding the flow of traffic. Kicking it up to 140km/h we were able to keep up with the "slower" cars in the right lane. However, the cars in the left lane were passing us one-by-one. Gabriel decided that we needed to keep up. I wasn't as inclined. We ended up driving comfortably at 160km/h, although we were continually passed by sports cars driving between 170km/h and 190km/h. We saw many Ferraris and Porsches, although the majority of the cars were Volkswagens or Audis. I was uncomfortable at these high speeds, as I know it takes only an instant for a terrible accident to occur. However, I noticed that the approach to driving in Germany (and the Netherlands) differs from that of North America. Instead of lumbering along in the left lane, German cars quickly pass and return to the right lane. There is nothing more frustrating than being behind a mini-van, going 80km/h down the Canadian highway, refusing to let anyone pass. I also noticed that the German cars seem to be built for these high speeds. There were very few of the smaller cars that we see here in the Netherlands, and more larger, wider vehicles.

Driving on the Autobahn

Of course, Gabriel had a wonderful time driving down the Autobahn. To him, it was pure joy! I suppose it is every male's dream: cruising down the Autobahn, speed limitless, in a German-made vehicle. When we reached a construction zone, we had to slow to a crawl of 100km/h. That was literally the "slow men-at-work" speed! It felt like we were going 40km/h. Needless to say, we made it to Koln safe and sound.

hitting some super-high speeds

We stayed for a night at the Ambassador hotel downtown. While it was pretty central, it was definitely not up to par with our regular standards. It smelled like smoke, the room was teensy (for three people) and the breakfast was mediocre. For what we paid, it was definitely not worth it. Regardless, we barely stayed in the room. We were too busy visiting all of the German "Brauhauses" and sight-seeing!

More about our German weekend to come later :)

Sunny

It's a drab and rainy day here in Amsterdam. Here are some sunny yellow photographs I took a few days ago around my street. Have a wonderful weekend everyone!